On to Cambridge Road to meet owner/winemaker Lance Redgwell. Sitting in pride of place in the tiny winery was Cambridge Road’s ceramic egg, newly arrived from Byron Bay, and (prompted by us) Lance gave a rundown of what he thought the egg will contribute to his wines. At one point I did have to pinch myself to make sure I wasn’t dreaming but actually listening to a winemaker speak. I remain to be convinced that wines need to be ‘energised’ before bottling, but having tasted the eggless wines (2014 vintage will be the first time the egg is used) I had to begrudgingly admit that Lance has a deft hand on the tiller so perhaps I should reserve judgment. Certainly the recent release wines had bags of personality and charm and I was especially taken by the co-fermented whites – in a world where single varietal wines dominate, good to see someone experiment. Martinborough Edelzwicker if you like.
2013 Papillon Blanc : co-fermented gruner, riesling, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris. An intriguing wine, 100% wild ferment. Fresh soft green herbs, basil and oregano. Just a touch of phenolic grip. Well done.
2012 Papillon Blanc : co-fermented pinot gris, riesling and pinot noir. Amber, the pinot noir adding quite a bit of colour. Rose petal and white peach. Dried herbs. Textural and dry.
2011 Dovetail : a pinot noir/syrah field blend. Very aromatic; black pepper, rose petal with some fleshy opulence. Refreshing acidity, tannins quite subdued but a little grip on the finish. Apparently it is a wine built for ageing but I liked it now, the slightly grippy dark cherry character giving a nod to Italy.
2011 Syrah : 2% viognier added as skins to 50% of the ferment. Bacon fat, pepper and dark plum. Chewy tannins balance the blueberry, damson fruit. Great length.